A Trip Up To Eagle's Nest

Shelley Pascual, a postgraduate student at Cardiff University, recently joined one of our Battlefields groups visiting the infamous visitors spot, Eagles Nest, Germany.

Shelley, currently studying International Journalism, undertook some parts of her dissertation research on our The Rise and Fall of the Third Reich, guided by the fantastic David McCormack, to see what stops some British tourists visiting Germany. And, is it down to perceptions they may have?
Kindly putting together a blog, capturing her own feelings visiting Adolf Hitler’s Kehlsteinhaus, or, better know to us as the Eagle’s Nest, read more about Shelley’s experience below.

A Trip Up To Eagle’s Nest

After joining a Leger Holidays tour group on their visit to Eagle’s Nest in southern Germany in June, it was plain to see why so many visitors flock to Hitler’s former holiday retreat.
Untitled
What is today a seasonal restaurant and beer garden with sweeping views of the Bavarian Alps was actually a gift the National Socialist party gave to Hitler on his 50th birthday.
Perched atop a rocky outcrop overlooking the town of Berchtesgaden close to the Austrian border, Eagle’s Nest is just one of the various “iconic and infamous” sites included in the itinerary of The Rise and Fall of the Third Reich, a tour which examines the “dark charisma of Adolf Hitler.” The group I had the pleasure of joining consisted mainly of British pensioners who all seemed to have one thing in common: a healthy fascination for history.
Untitled
To reach Eagle’s Nest, we first boarded a bus just outside a museum which documents the region’s National Socialist past. After a steep and winding uphill bus ride, we arrived at the entrance of a tunnel in the mountainside. At the end of the tunnel, an elevator would ensure our final ascent up to Eagle’s Nest.
As I slowly made my way through the cool and damp tunnel, however, an unsettling feeling crept over me. It was then that it hit me; I was walking in Hitler’s footsteps. He had once gone through the very same tunnel and taken the same ornate, brass elevator. It was the closest connection I had ever felt to real, atrocious history.
Untitled
Coming to terms with being physically present where evil decisions were once made in such a spectacular location was something I struggled with. But after speaking with the group’s tour guide and historian, David McCormack, I gained some valuable insight.

“In the mind, is it difficult to reconcile the beauty with evil,” said David. “These beautiful sites are remote and you need remote locations for decisions about evil to take place. You need to keep these decisions secret.”
Untitled
Though it was eerie being at one of the few places in Germany where National Socialist history survives in a solid form, it was also admittedly fascinating. Indeed, people come to Eagle’s Nest for historical interest, for its undeniable beauty, or for both.
“It is seeing the places that the tour members have read about that makes the history come alive for them,” said David. According to him, Third Reich sites should continue to be visited. “If you study the past, you can understand it,” said David. “We can all, then, ensure that history does not repeat itself.”

We would like to thank Shelley for joining us and wish her well during the remainder of her studies.

Europe's Most Colourful Destinations

Spring has blossomed, the darkness of winter will soon be a distant memory and it’s time to say so long to stark trees and grey skies. With spring comes a much awaited injection of colour and that’s just what we’ve been waiting for.

And when it comes to vibrant encounters, Europe is host to many spectacular colour parades from its floral displays to the unique tones of its beautiful architecture.
So, if you’re wanting to get into the spirit of spring, why not take a look at our top destinations to add a pop of colour into your travels?

Holland

iStock_000020097477_Large (1) edit
Of course, in the true spirit of spring, we have to start off with the tulips fields of Holland.
The cheerful Dutch Bulbfields are enough to brighten anyone’s day, with a gorgeous array of stunning colours and perfectly places windmills, you will well and truly know that spring has sprung.
The spectacular Keukenhof Park blooms between March and May, offering not only the iconic tulip displays, but also a variety of daffodils, hyacinths and crocus – a perfect destination for any avid gardener.

Copenhagen

Scenic summer view of Nyhavn pier with color buildings, ships, yachts and other boats in the Old Town of Copenhagen, Denmark
Down by the Nyhavn is where you will make the most of colourful Copenhagen. It was once the home to the famous Danish fairytale writer, Hans Christian Anderson (Number 20 for any literary fans), too!
Pretty pastel coloured buildings line the waterfront with ornate, old ships bobbing about on the water beside you, it sure does make for a lovely setting to rest your feet and enjoy a coffee or beer. Especially after a long day’s sightseeing.

Berlin

BERLIN, GERMANY - NOV 15, 2014: People walkingat Berlin Wall at East Side Gallery . It's a 1.3 km long part of original Wall which collapsed in 1989 and now is largest world graffiti gallery.
Love it or loathe it, graffiti art can be found in most cities, and Berlin is a haven for Street Art. And, when done properly, the artwork brings the city to life with impressive colourful murals.
One part of the world famous Berlin Wall has been turned into a gallery reflecting on a time of change and the hope for a better world. The East Side Gallery is possibly the largest and long-lasting open air galleries in the world and sure is spectacular.

Lisbon

Lisbon, Portugal skyline at Sao Jorge Castle at dusk.
Lisbon’s streets certainly have a nice surprise when you take a minute to look at the buildings surrounding you. Many homes are covered top-to-toe in decorative tiles, also known as the Azulejos.
They’re a huge part of Portuguese culture and, funnily enough, only private homes are allowed to be adorned in such splendour. So, it’s well worth heading off the beaten track in Lisbon.

Burano

Colorful buildings in Burano island sunny street, Venise, Italy
A little known cheerful haven just 7km from the centre of Venice. Burano, the coloured island of lace, is awash with brightly painted buildings, neon pink? You better believe it!
The coloured buildings date back to the islands ‘Golden Age’ when the island was first being developed. It is said that fisherman were the first to paint their homes bright colours so they could see them whilst out on the water.
But, you can’t paint your home just any old colour. You must send a letter to the government who will let you know colours that you’re allowed to paint your home meaning the island keeps its multi-hued charm.

Santorini

sunset over Santorini
Think of Greek Islands and you are sure to conjure up an image of white buildings and blue roofs. And is there anywhere more stunningly in keeping with this than Santorini?
But don’t just think it’s a whitewash, the petite island is awash with stand-out colour, particularly in the town of Oia.
Colourful flowers and buildings painted in pink, yellows, oranges and red, perfectly contrast the clear blue skies and sparkling seas surrounding this cliff-side town.

Isn’t Europe such a colourful place? What’s the most pantone perfect place you’ve visited?

“How lucky we are” – The Fritz and Tommy Battlefield Tour by Rob Schäfer

I have been visiting the battlefields of Flanders and the Somme for nearly 20 years, but this is the first time ever where I sincerely doubt if all the suffering was worth it.
This moving remark was made by one of our guests on the last day of the ‘Fritz and Tommy’ Battlefield Tour in October and was certainly one of my personal highlights this year.

I had the pleasure to guide two of these tours in September and October, working side by side with Leger guides Paul Reed and Marc Hope, leading the guests to German sites in Flanders, Northern France and the Somme
Visiting battlefields, cemeteries and forgotten German memorials, following in the footsteps of Ernst Jünger and the young Adolf Hitler, then a corporal in the Royal Bavarian Reserve Infantry Regiment No. 16, looking at German military, funeral and mourning traditions, organizational details and telling stories and anecdotes of the German army and the units that fought in the places we visited. How did Fritz, the German soldier experience the Great War and what were the joint experiences of Fritz and Tommy. What set them apart and what united them.LHRossignolWood
The first day on the battlefields was spent in Flanders. For the German men that fought in the war Flandern was a byword for sacrifice and suffering and we went out to look at how Germany commemorated her dead in that area, visiting the German cemeteries at Vladslo and Langemarck, a virtually forgotten German regimental memorial and looking at the ‘Langemarck myth’ and its importance to the propaganda of the National-Socialists.
After that we examined the pivotal fighting around Gheluvelt, the key to Ypres, on the Menin Road. Here we used letters and diary extracts of German soldiers from Württemberg and Bavaria that fought in and captured the village in November 1914 before switching our sights to the desperate and decisive counter charge of the 2nd Worcesters.
After lunch at Hooge Crater Café we visited Bayernwald to see the German trench system there, an ideal place to talk about the undying myth that German trenches were generally better than their English counterparts and to have a closer look at German and British mining techniques.
At Messines we visited William the Conqueror’s mother in law and looked at the story of Herr Hitler again, reading an account of how his battalion celebrated Christmas in the church and crypt in December 1914 before finishing the day visiting a German officer’s grave on a British cemetery to tell his sad and fascinating story.LHNeuville
Day three led us to northern France to the sad German cemetery at Wervicq before exploring the Frommelles battlefield from both sides, looking at its German defences and talking about the first clash between German and Australian troops and how that event influenced the catastrophic outcome of the Battle of Frommelles. One of my highlights of the September tour was certainly the visit to the huge mass of individual graves that forms the military cemetery of Neuville St. Vaast, where 44888 German soldiers from more than a hundred different divisions from all provinces and counties of Germany are buried. Here Paul Reed’s soulful recitation of a letter written by a German veteran to the famous British war poet Henry Williamson left everyone, including me, speechless and lost for words. A misty-eyed moment and a truly moving experience I will never forget.
Day four was spent on the Somme starting at Copse 125 or Rossignol Wood, where the famous German stormtrooper-writer Ernst Jünger fought in 1918 opposite New Zealanders including the ‘King of No Man’s Land’ Dick Travis V.C. DCM MM. Among highlights of that day were our stops at Hawthorne Ridge and Sunken Lane as here we were able to deliver a most detailed account of the slaughter that happened there on 1 July 1916.
An ideal location allowing people to immerse themselves in the story told.
Highlighting the experiences of attacker and defender alike, reading accounts from both German and English soldiers that had fought there that day and finishing the presentation off inside the bus, with lights dimmed, watching Malins’ famous footage of the explosion of the mine, Sunken Lane and the attack on Hawthorne Ridge. LHHawthornRidge2
To stand in the middle of where it all happened and to know what exactly happened there on the German side and the English side left a lasting impression on everyone. After visit to Courcelette the days on the Somme ended at Guillemont where we returned to Ernst Jünger and his harrowing descriptions of the fighting there in 1916.
I was positively surprised about amount of interest in the groups and even after the official end of each day I continued answering questions in lively debates over many a glass of Belgian beer, sometimes up until deep in the night. For me personally these tours have been commemorative events in their own right. A hundred years have passed since Fritz and Tommy fought each other in four horrible years of suffering and pain.
Now in 2014, we, their ancestors are able to travel the battlefields together, walking in their footsteps as friends. How lucky we are.

Nie wieder Krieg! Fritz and Tommy – We will remember them

Directors Choice: Huw Williams goes Walking in the Italian S

Here at Leger we offer a fantastic selection of different and exciting tours, ranging from the classic sights of Europe to experiencing live events such as the Formula One Grand Prix. However, one experience that we are particularly proud of is our walking tours. We have taken our customers hiking through the Austrian mountains to walking in the footsteps of heroes through the Battlefields of World War One. Our Marketing Director, Huw Williams, loves walking and in turn has chosen our Walking in the Italian Süd Tirol tour as his Directors Choice. Huw has kindly answered some of our frequently asked questions about his tour and walking tours in general.

What is a walking holiday and what does it entail?

A walking holiday with Leger is a combination of a coach holiday with sightseeing opportunities combined with graded, guided walks through beautiful, interesting scenery.

As your Directors’ Choice, what made you choose this tour?

I had never visited the Italian Sud Tirol, a destination we’ve specialised in for 30 years, so I thought it was about time!
My wife (who accompanied me) and I also love walking, so it seemed to be the ideal combination. It was a Silver Service departure, too, so that made it even more appealing as I am quite tall and appreciate the extra legroom.

What are the perks of a walking holiday?

The fresh air and exercise in amazing, scenic surroundings give you a real sense of contentment and well-being. A chance to take a step back (excuse the pun) from day-to-day demands and appreciate the simple pleasures of life….one of which is spending time with a small group of walking companions and making new friends.

Are the walks taken as a group or do you go your own pace?

All walks are accompanied by an experienced guide and the group walks together. Inevitably, people walk at different paces and this is catered for, within certain limits.

What did you expect before heading off on the tour and was there anything that left you pleasantly surprised?

Walking guide Christina
Our walking guide, Christina

The tour mostly met my expectations, which it should considering my job! However, my expectations were exceeded by: the comfort of Silver Service and the performance of our drivers; the amazing hospitality at our hotel in Uttenheim, the zum Schlossl (Anna is such a good cook); the friendliness and expertise of our walking guide, Christina; and especially the truly stunning scenery of the Sud Tirol. It was breath-taking.

Is a walking holiday suitable for single travellers?

Absolutely, there were several guests travelling on their own and, to my knowledge, had a great time. Coach and walking holidays are perfect for getting to know your fellow travellers quickly and making new friends.

Which was your favourite walk of the tour?

The Waldner Pilgrimage, from Prettau up to  the Waldner Alm. It had unbelievable views. But every walk was rewarding in its own right because of the varied features of each one.

What would you say to people who think they aren’t fit or experienced enough to try a walking holiday?

A reasonable level of fitness is important. If you rarely take exercise or have mobility issues, our walking holidays are not suitable for you.
However, if you’re a regular walker, whether over gentle or more challenging terrain, we’ll have something to suit because our walks are graded according to difficulty.
I would certainly recommend you do some preparation beforehand, though. It will enhance your enjoyment. And ensure you have suitable boots and clothing.
It doesn’t matter if you’re inexperienced because all walks are fully guided and you will receive pre-walk briefings and lots of tips and advice to help you get the most from each day.

What advice would you give to someone about to head off on their first walking holiday?

Savour every moment and take lots of pictures to remind you what a wonderful time you had…until the next time, that is. Believe me, once you’ve done it you’ll want to go again.

What three words would you use to sum up your experience on this tour?

Exhilarating, friendly, fun.

And finally, given the choice of any European country, which would you personally choose as an ideal walking tour destination?

For me, it’s the mountain scenery I find irresistible. Therefore, it probably has to be somewhere in the Alps. The Italian Sud Tirol fits the bill and that’s probably because it used to be part of Austria until the end of the First World War. So, as I love everything about Austria, I would choose it as my ideal European walking destination. Maybe I’ll choose Walking in the Austrian Tyrol for my next Directors’ Choice!

Here are some of Huw’s fantastic photos from his Directors Choice tour, Walking in the Italian Sud Tirol, this tour is available to view here

If you’d like to take a look at the fantastic choice of walking tours available to book now, click here.

If at first you don’t succeed…: a dance cut short ' sur le Pont d’ Avignon ’.

Passing through neat rows of grapevines and rolling green fields stretching as far as the eye could see, we continued with our tour of Provence and the Dordogne on our way to the charming walled city of Avignon.

It was a beautiful April morning and the sun was shining as we continued along twisting roads and past the terracotta rooftops of delightful little villages along the way.
Arriving in Avignon we soon had excellent views of the mighty Palais des Papes – the Popes’ Palace – the largest Gothic palace in Europe, and the famous bridge: Pont d’Avignon, Saint Bénezet or ‘the broken bridge’ as it’s also known. Built in the 12th century, this bridge is the subject of a children’s song Sur le Pont d’Avignon, about handsome gentlemen, pretty dames, gardeners, dressmakers, grape growers and various other people all dancing on the bridge of Avignon. In reality, the bridge is only about 4 metres wide, so not a great deal of space for dancing!

FRA_AVI_000025_F_SS_Small
Strolling through the streets of Avignon

We made our way through the charming streets to the Place du Palais – the second of two main squares in Avignon, dominated by the huge palace which was home to Roman Catholic popes for almost 70 years during the 14th century. Climbing the stone steps we entered the palace for an audio tour around the enormous building with its grand halls, manicured lawn and spacious courtyards. The climb up to the roof terrace was well worth the effort – the reward was an excellent view over the city, the river and the famous broken bridge.

The streets led us to the Place du Palais
The streets led us to the busy Place du Palais
Great vews over Avignon
Great views over Avignon

For many years the Pont d’Avignon was the only stone bridge along the 186 mile stretch of the river Rhône between Lyon and the Mediterranean sea. Over the years the structure was damaged and many of its original 22 arches were swept away by the choppy flood waters of the Rhône. The crumbling bridge had to be constantly repaired until the 17th century when the cost of rebuilding and continual maintenance became too much for the city of Avignon to bear and the bridge gradually weakened. In time, the surviving arches collapsed leaving the four that remain today.

Bags of Lavender are everywhere!
Bags of Lavender are everywhere!

After our palace tour we walked through the city’s tangle of narrow cobbled backstreets, past souvenir shops emitting the sweet smell of lavender from the pretty little bags swinging from displays and out onto the road which runs alongside the Rive Rhône. The oatmeal-coloured stone stood out brightly against the brilliant blue sky as we crossed over the road to get to the medieval bridge. Climbing the steps I could see that the bridge was quite busy with visitors, maybe some of them dressmakers and grape growers wanting to dance ‘sur le Pont d’Avignon’?

Heading across the bridge
Heading across the bridge leaving behind the Palais des Papes

I quickstepped my way through the crowd, desperate to get all the way over to the other side, since it was the view from the banking on the other side of the river that I’d seen all the postcards and in brochures and wanted to capture for myself. Faster and faster I tried to weave through the crowd, camera at the ready. After a few ‘excusez-moi’s, I emerged from the throng of people… and realised… I was trying to cross ‘the broken bridge’.
It was just half an hour until our coach would be departing, but not one to be defeated I did a quick about-turn back through the crowds and with a few more ‘excusez moi’s, rushed back down the steps, along the river bank to the next bridge, over the bridge and down the other side of the Rhône. Walking as fast as my legs would carry me, I jumped over the extended rods of fishermen sitting on the river bank, breaking into a run through a large group of pigeons being fed by families – causing the birds to scatter in all directions – and locals taking their dogs for a leisurely walk.
Back over the bridge at an even quicker pace, I made it back to the coach with time to spare and collapsed into my seat, out of breath, but happy that I’d got the shot I wanted.

The broken bridge, in all its splendour
THE shot: the broken bridge, in all its splendour

Have you been to Avignon? Share your stories and comments with us! We’d love to hear from you!