How a place of detention, torture and murder became the home of the largest state sponsored forgery operation in the history of economic warfare.
Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp was designed in early 1936 by SS Second-Lieutenant Bernhard Kuiper. The site was constructed in the shape of an isosceles triangle, with the apex at the rear of the camp and the two equal sides forming the camp boundary.
SS Architect Bernhard Kuiper
The base of the camp housed the gate house and administration building from which the whole camp could be observed. The wooden barracks were built on a semi-circle around the roll-call square. In 1937, Kuiper looked back on his work with pride, stating that Sachsenhausen was, ‘the most beautiful concentration camp in Germany’.
Andrzej Szczypiorski who survived the horrors of the camp disagreed. Years later, during a visit to the site of his detention and torture, he asked his fellow visitors, ‘do you remember our Sachsenhausen as an elegant camp?’.
Sachsenhausen gate house and administration building
The first prisoners incarcerated in the camp were those placed into ‘Protective Custody’ for either real or perceived offences against the state. By the end of 1936, the camp held 1,600 prisoners. Later, the camp held several other categories of prisoners including Jews, homosexuals, career criminals, asocial elements, Jehovah’s Witnesses, Soviet prisoners of war and Allied commandos/agents.
Salomon Smolianoff
Prominent prisoners included Pastor Martin Niemoller, former Austrian Chancellor Kurt von Schuschnigg, Georg Elser (responsible for planting the Burgerbraukeller bomb in November 1939), Herschel Grynzpan (responsible for assassinating German diplomat Ernst von Rath in Paris in November 1938), Yakov Dzhugshvilli (Stalin’s son) and three of the ‘Great Escapers’ Sydney Dowse, Johnnie Dodge and Jimmy James.
Apart from being a place of detention, torture and murder, Sachsenhausen became the home of Operation Bernhard, an audacious plot to destabilise the British economy by flooding it with fake currency. The operation was essentially a revival of Operation Andreas which ceased operations after it’s head SS Major Alfred Naujocks fell out of favour with the head of the Reich Security Services Reinhard Heydrich.
The new operation began in July 1942, and was headed by SS Major Bernhard Kruger who had arrested and subsequently incarcerated master forger Salomon Smolianoff in Mauthausen Concentration Camp three years earlier.
Operation Bernhard produced some 9,000,000 backdated notes in denominations of £5, £10, £20 and £50 to an estimated value of £134,000,000. For many years after the war, large numbers of fake notes remained in circulation, prompting the Bank of England to take drastic measures by withdrawing all notes larger than £5.
A recovered Operation Bernhard forged £5 note
A new £5 note was produced in 1957. Seven years later, the £10 was reintroduced. However, it was not until 1970 that the £20 note was reintroduced. Incredibly, it took until 1981 for the £50 to be finally reintroduced. Such was the legacy of Operation Bernhard. Learn more about this fascinating subject on our Holocaust themed tour ‘The Story of Anne Frank and Oscar Schindler‘.
The second part of the Sachsenhausen blog will focus on the murder of Soviet prisoners of war, the liberation of the camp and its subsequent establishment as a Soviet ‘Special Camp’.
Shamrocks, leprechauns and whiskey… Ireland is awash with culture, myth and, well, spirits. But, not just that, it’s also packed full of fun and frolics.
Swathes of stunning countryside, mountains and castles, cities, coastlines, just a short hop across the Irish Sea. What more could you ask for? Guinness? Well you’re in luck because there is plenty of that on offer, 10 million pints are produced daily in Dublin alone!
But, if you’re planning to jump on over to Ireland, let us tell you about our top 5 hotspots of the beautiful Emerald Isle.
Dublin
The Dublin Spire
If Ireland is the land of craic, then this is certainly the capital of craic! Obviously, you can’t have a blog about Ireland without mentioning the mighty Dublin. Home of the Leprechaun museum, Jameson’s distillery and the world famous Guinness Storehouse, it’s a diverse city with plenty to see and do… for everyone!
From cathedrals, to the impressively sized Phoenix Park (it’s so big it even has a Zoo inside!), Ha’penny bridge, O’Connell bridge – the only traffic bridge in Europe that is wider than it is long – and Ireland’s oldest pub, The Brazen Head.
You can even sail down the River Liffey on an amphibious bus wearing Viking helmets. Like we said, it’s the capital of craic. Even our CEO has been caught enjoying the craic on St Patrick’s Day in Dublin.
It’s the resting place of the patron saint of love, St. Valentine, and has been given a UNESCO City of Literature title, one of only 6 in the world.
If you’re wondering why, here’s a scratch in the surface of who called this wonderful city home… playwright Oscar Wilde, Dracula creator Bram Stoker, Nobel Prize and Oscar winner George Bernard Shaw and, of course, Ulysees writer, James Joyce. A talent pool you couldn’t turn your nose up at.
Wild Atlantic Way
Slieve League
From the most northern point to the southern peninsulas, the Wild Atlantic Way is a 2500km stretch of western coast line. We may have been a bit sneaky having this as a ‘hot spot’, with 157 discovery points, 1,000 attractions and more than 2,500 activities along the way, but a visit to any part of the Wild Atlantic Way is a must for anyone wanting to explore more of Ireland, outside of the Dublin hub.
From the northern headlands, with highlights such as Slieve League, some of the highest cliffs in Europe with an impressive 609m drop into the churning Atlantic below, to the rocky natural beauty of the south.
One must-see, reaching far into the Atlantic, is the Dingle Peninsula, one of southwest Ireland’s final fanfares and a great place to visit. The rugged landscape, the dramatic, swirling waters at the cliff foot and the sandy coves, if you’re looking for spectacular scenery, this is the place for you. Dingle Peninsula
Stopping off in the town of Dingle, you may notice the houses, like a pastel patchwork of pretty buildings. Why? You ask. Well, it’s all down to Ireland’s ‘Tidy Town’ competition, held over 30 years ago, that inspired the makeover, and it’s still just as impressive today.
And, we can’t forget the Ring of Kerry. And no, despite it being the land of the leprechaun, that isn’t a piece of jewellery stashed away in the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow, it’s actually the most frequently travelled tourist route, around the Iveragh Peninsula.
It’s one of the most mythical and unspoilt areas of the Emerald Isle and is well worth a visit. Even if you’re just seeing what all the fuss is about, you won’t be disappointed.
Donegal
Fanad Head Lighthouse, Donegal.
Dubbed the ‘coolest place on the planet’ by National Geographic Traveller magazine. In fact, it was actually used as the setting for the upcoming Star Wars film, The Last Jedi, due to be released in December 2017.
Ireland has become a hit with the Lucas film cast and crew having shot scenes from The Force Awakens in the country, but, the trailer already shows us the breath-taking scenery shot on location in the Irish town itself.
But, beyond the scenes of the silver screen, Donegal has a lot more on offer. Rugged coastline, serene beaches, castles and mountains, just to name a few. The bustling town is the crown jewel of the area, a true Gaelic great. There’s plenty of fantastic souvenirs to grab whilst you’re there, too, with hand-woven tweed a popular product of the area.
Even if you’re looking to have a crack at enjoying the ‘craic’, being outside of Dublin will not do you any disservice. The pubs of the Diamond Area of Donegal are a great stop off to rest your feet and enjoy some of the local culture and a tipple or two.
So, whilst in Donegal, “Go mbeidh an fórsa leat!” Or, may the force be with you, if you’re not fluent in Gaelic.
County Wicklow
Glendalough
The capital’s favourite playground, stretching south of Dublin, County Wicklow is an area of natural beauty, and is one not to be missed.
The picturesque Wicklow Mountains National Park offers an impressive backdrop to one of the country’s most popular walking trails. Laraghs (lakes), mountains (obviously) and traditional Irish pubs (of course), there’s plenty on offer in the serene wilderness that is Wicklow.
And, as the old saying goes, in the beautiful Irish village of Ballykissangel, everybody knows each other’s business… and you can get to know it too. If you’re a fan, visiting Avoca village the set of the popular BBC One series, is one of the exciting attractions on offer in the county. Ballykissangel… sorry, Avoca.
A small village with pretty buildings and, yes, stepping in the footsteps of a young Colin Farrell can be part of the attraction, but the village itself is simply a treat to visit. You can visit the Fitzgerald’s pub, the church, the shops and the Garda train station and see exactly what drew film crews to this stunning pocket of Ireland.
But, if that’s not enough scenery for you then why not hop over to Glendalough? Hands down one of Ireland’s most beautiful destinations.
Home to one of the most important monastic sites in Ireland, the spot is full of impressive ruins from early churches, a graceful round tower and plenty of sites relating to the life of Saint Kevin – the founder of Glendalough.
Cliffs of Moher
The Cliffs of Moher
You’ve probably heard of the Cliffs of Moher, or at least seen photos of them, maybe you didn’t even know their name at the time? But, the image sticks in your mind because, well, they’re pretty impressive to say the least.
For anyone who’s interested in geology, the cliffs date back to over 300 million years. They’re mostly sandstone and shale and their individual layers that have rested over the millions of years lead to variations in the erosion rate from the powerful waters below, giving them that famous ragged edge.
Attracting over 1 million visitors a year, they’re fairly famous too. Remember the Holy Stone of Clonrichert in Father Ted? Yep, this was on the Cliffs of Moher. You can see the natural beauties in all their glory in the “Tentacles of Doom” episode.
But, they’ve also made cameos in The Princess Bride, Into the West and Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince, to name a few.
They’re also a nature spotting haven! It’s even protected by EU legislation as an area of importance for bird species. So, what can you expect to see? Atlantic puffins, Guillemot, Razorbill and Kittiwake, to name a few.
The sea is rich with plankton that attract whales and whale sharks, seals are common and occasionally, you may be lucky enough to spot a pod of dolphins. Atlantic Puffin
If Ireland sounds like your sort of thing, then why not visit for yourself? We’ve got a great selection of Emerald Isle tours, from St Patrick’s Day in Dublin to the Ring of Kerry. So, why not take a look and see if we’ve got the experience that suits you: Escorted Tours to Ireland.
Think of Europe, and we know what would spring to mind, popular holiday and sightseeing destinations, such as the likes of Italy, France, Germany and Portugal, for example. But what about those destinations a little further east?
It may not have the most glamorous reputation, when you have the glitz and glamour of western Europe heavy weights like the French Riviera and the sunny Spanish coast to compare it to, but there’s a lot more to Eastern Europe than stag do’s and a cheap pint.
In fact, we don’t think we’re alone when we say it’s actually one of the most fascinating pockets of Europe.
The view over Budapest from the Fisherman’s Bastion
From the Czech Republic to Russia, there’s plenty to see and do, and if you aren’t mesmerised by it all, we’ll eat our hat! But, as we’re not ones to keep things like this to ourselves, here are our top 5 reasons to enjoy a holiday in Eastern Europe.
History
Eastern Europe has more historical tales than you can shake a stick at. It is complex, it’s gruesome and it’s fascinating. The good, the bad and the downright ugly, from the Red Army to the Iron Curtain, there’s a lot to be learnt. And, you don’t have to be a history buff to be astounded by what can be found here. Auschwitz, for example, is a place where the word ‘visiting’ simply does not explain the wave of emotion and the feelings that you experience when you are where the most deadly of the concentration camps stood.
Auschwitz
In 2016, a record 2 million visitors, from all over the world, came to Auschwitz. Walking into the site, you’re met with the eerie reality of what happened there, not all that long ago, allowing us to re-live to the darkest echoes of the past. Budapest offers a unique look at how previously independent communities of Buda and Pest, separated by the Danube, have come together to create one of Eastern Europe’s most popular cities.
From medieval castles to memorials built in honour of the Soviet liberation of Hungary from Nazi forces, it’s one of many fascinating cities that should be on every European explorer’s wish list.
In Berlin you can still learn about the reality of the segregation, including the Iron curtain that lead to the Cold War.
Brandenburg Gate
With parts of the Berlin Wall still visible and Brandenburg Gate now one of Berlin’s most popular attractions, the reminders of the past that separated the communist countries of Eastern Europe and capitalist countries of the west are still apparent and give us an interesting opportunity to learn about the history of Europe as a whole.
Variety and Culture
Within a relatively small area of Eastern Europe, you can enjoy a variety of different cultures. From Finland to Russia, the cultural landscape is diverse. You can even cover a whole spectrum of exciting destinations is just a short time, as there are plenty of exciting countries in close proximity to each other.
Even though the east is rapidly becoming more westernised, enjoy the Bohemian lifestyle in the Czech Republic, the rich culture of Russia with its outstanding arts, music, and of course, ballet.
Even cities such as Prague and Krakow are still steeped in fascinating tradition. Cobbled streets, horse and carts and plenty of museums and theatres, you can be sure to get a cultural feast in either of these cities.
Krakow
But, it’s certainly doesn’t end there. With the likes of Vienna, Ljubljana and Dubrovnik, there’s plenty to see for all the culture vulture’s out there.
And, best of all, you’ll get more for your money! In most areas you’ll find a vast difference in costs between Eastern Europe and its western counterpart. A pint of beer a relative steal, and a tasty meal just a snip at what you’d expect to pay, even at home.
Sight-seeing
A real crowd pleaser, Eastern Europe doesn’t fall short when it comes to photo opportunities. Forget about the Eiffel Tower, here we’ve got the un-sung heroes that might even top the list when it comes to sightseeing opportunities.
As Winston Churchill once said “The Balkans produce more history than they can consume” – and that’s just the start of what’s on offer! In fact, Vogue called Eastern Europe 2017’s hot travel destination. Ooh, you trendsetter, you!
As we’ve already stopped off there, let’s delve a little deeper into Prague… it is host to a wonderful selection of landmarks, most famously the Astronomical Clock, and of course, Charles Bridge.
Charles Bridge, Prague
In fact, in 1989, the largest number of tourists were recorded at Charles Bridge, coming in at a whopping 1562 people. Doesn’t sound like a lot? Considering the bridge is only 1600 feet in length, and with four lanes of traffic, that’s almost one person per foot!
But, of course, that’s only dipping your toes into this amazing city. There’s also Prague Castle, Petřín Park and Wenceslas square right on your doorstep. Luckily, there’s also a host of fantastic bars, restaurants, and cafes, if you need to take the weight off for a minute or two.
The imperial city of Vienna gives you a chance to see incredible architecture, such as the Hofburg Palace, in all of its glory. And, of course, we have to mention the Giant Wheel.
What better way to see the city than from the top of a 64 metre tall Ferris wheel? It’s also one of the oldest operating wheels in the world, so it has its historical value, too.
Hofburg Palace, Vienna
Whilst in the ‘City of Music’, for all you Musicophiles out there, there’s plenty of sights that sing to your tune, having been home to Mozart, Beethoven, Johann Struas and Brahms, you can even head over to Schoenbrunn Palace where Mozart presented his first concert at the age of six!
And what about the UNESCO world heritage site of Warsaw’s old town? With the Royal Castle and King Zygmunt III Waza Column, there’s plenty to see whilst you’re there.
That’s before we even mention the spectacular sights of western Russia. With plenty to see in Moscow and St. Petersburg from the Kremlin to the Bronze Horseman statue, you will certainly leave with a lasting impression.
Phew! That’s enough to fill any photo book, and that’s just skimming the surface…
Food and Drink
If you’re into hearty and wholesome foods, you’ll be very excited by the Eastern Europe cuisines. You can find and array of traditional and unique dishes in each of the countries you visit, and if local cuisine is your thing, you’re in for a treat when you’re touring the east of the continent.
Soups, meats, fresh fish and vegetables, you’re on a tour of the taste buds as the food in eastern Europe is renowned for its spectacular flavour. A tasty goulash in Hungary, catch of the day on the Dalmatian coast, or maybe a hot or cold borsht in Poland (Beetroot soup, if you were wondering.).
Goulash & Borsht
But, as with many places in relatively close proximity, of course you’ll get some overlap. Stuffed cabbage, stews and even a tasty chicken schnitzel will be on the menu in many Eastern European countries.
And, if you’re not one to turn down the opportunity to try a new tipple, there’s plenty of local spirits to quench a thirst. From Russian Vodka to Polish Wódka, you can get a taste for Schnapps in Austria, Becherovka in the Czech Republic and a Palinka in Hungary.
Geography
From picturesque beaches to stunning mountain scenery, and all that is in between, Eastern Europe has it all.
Heading over to the coast of Croatia is fast becoming one of the top travel plans of many Brits and it’s easy to see why. White, sandy beaches and the crystal clear waters of the Adriatic, it’s far from the dull and dreary scenes we’re so used to at home.
Heading inland, if you’ve got a head for heights, the Tatras Mountains are certainly a good shout. Forming the border between Poland and Slovakia, their granite peaks were formed over 60 million years ago and attract over three million visitors a year!
But, even with the heavy footfall from inquisitive tourists, the mountains have maintained their pristine state and well worth a visit if you want to see nature at its finest.
We’re even treated to some of the most amazing waterways offering some incredible river cruising opportunities along the River Danube. Flowing through Germany, Austria and Hungary, you’ve got the perfect opportunity to embark on possibly some of the most relaxing sightseeing trips in Europe.
We could go on for days, but don’t let us just tell you how great Eastern Europe is, let us show you. Take a look at our exciting range of eastern European coach tours, here.
In the autumn of 1946, the Soviet military administration in Berlin sponsored a competition to construct a memorial in Berlin’s Treptower Park. The thirty-three entrants were given a design brief which stipulated that the finished monument should symbolise liberation from Fascism, rather than victory over Germany.
The winning entry came from a ‘creative collective’ consisting of the architect Yakov S. Beloposki, the sculptor Yevgeni W. Vuchetich, the painter Alexander A. Gorpenko and the engineer Sarra S. Valerias.
The construction of the memorial was carried out by German labourers, supervised by a unit of Soviet engineer officers. On 8 May 1949, the completed memorial was inaugurated in a solemn ceremony attended by high ranking Soviet officers and German Communist politicians.
The imposing statue of a heroic Soviet soldier cradling a young German girl in his arm formed the centrepiece of the memorial site. In some respects, it follows in the tradition of the ‘Hermann’ monument at Detmold and the ‘Battle of the Nations’ monument at Leipzig.
These German monuments symbolised the heroic struggles of the German peoples against the tyranny of occupying powers. In the same vein, the Soviet monument in Treptower Park portrayed the Red Army and it’s German Communist allies as heroic defenders against an alien Nazi regime.
It has long been assumed that the soldier represented in the statue was Guards Sergeant Nikolai Masalov of the 220th Guards Rifle Regiment. General Vasily Chuikov’s Fall of Berlin, a chronicle of the advance of 8th Guards Army through Berlin (published in 1968) contained a gripping account of Masalov’s supposed feat of courage in rescuing a three year old German girl during the battle for the Potsdamer Bridge.
Whilst Chuikov’s account added substance to the Masalov story, not everyone remained convinced. In 2009, Pravda journalist Maksim Kondratyev argued that, ‘It cannot be ruled out that the architect simply created a perfect image of the Soviet soldier’. In my own view, the statue is a propaganda piece loosely based an Masalov. Indeed, rumours persist that the soldier who sat for Vuchetich was not Masalov, but Ivan Odartschenko, a Soviet soldier who happened to be blessed with film-star good looks.
As Vuchetich was Stalin’s favourite sculptor, the direct involvement of the Soviet dictator cannot be discounted. Stalin was determined to demonstrate that whilst the capitalist democracies expended their wealth to defeat Nazi Germany, the Soviet Union paid a much higher price in blood. Therefore, the memorial is a means of conveying the massive losses incurred by Soviet forces and civilians during the apocalyptic struggle between the two diametrically opposed regimes.
Moreover, the memorial symbolises the liberation of the German people from Nazism. With this in mind, could it be argued that Chuikov’s account of the incident on the Potsdamer Bridge is no more than a companion piece to the memorial? Could it be, that the young girl, gently and reassuringly held by the humble Soviet soldier featured in the main memorial was no more than a symbolic creation? On our fascinating Rise & Fall of the III Reich tour, we look into these questions, and much, much more.
There are a few things that may spring to mind when you think or Norway. Cold? Snow? Northern Lights? You’d be forgiven if so. But, we’re thinking of something a little different.
What we’re proposing might just come as a bit of a surprise… we’re saying summertime, lush scenery and the mighty Fjordland! And, possibly the most incredible summer holiday you’ve ever had.
Norway is host to our brand new summertime tour in 2018, with our Picturebook Norway tour setting off on its maiden voyage.
This fantastic holiday is actually the brain child of our Dream Tour Competition winner, Sue Godwin. But, we agree completely with her sentiments and are proud to call this, not only Sue’s, but our dream tour.
Geirangerfjord
Why? You ask. Well, let us tell you just why a holiday to the Norwegian Fjords is the ideal summertime break.
Firstly, it’s not as cold as you think. The weather is surprisingly good!
In fact, from late June to early August, the weather is at its most stable and it’s not unusual for temperatures to reach 25°C and above. The days are sunny and bright and there’s plenty of daylight – perfect to see the Fjordland, in all of its beauty.
Kjosfossen Waterfall
And, the favourable weather conditions actually give life to some of Norway’s most fruitful areas, producing an array of berries, vegetables and fruits.
Tasty tip: The combination of the water, the steep mountains, deep fjords and the heat from the sun help the Norwegians create some of the tastiest, locally produced juices in the world. The perfect way to quench your thirst on a warm, summer’s day.
In Fjord Norway sunsets and sunrises, dawn and dusk last longer than at more southern latitudes. And, with nice weather and plenty of daylight, you have the perfect ingredients to enjoy a fantastic stretch of sightseeing.
Summertime Dusk in the Fjords
And, what better way to see the stunning fjords than on the Flåm railway? Dubbed the world’s most beautiful train journey, and one of the most popular tourist attractions in Norway, you can enjoy a magical journey from sea level at the Sognefjord to the Myrdal Mountain station – an impressive 867 metres high!
The Flam Railway
But, that’s not all. It’s also one of the steepest rail ways in the world with over 80 percent of the journey at a gradient of 5.5%, and whilst you can imagine that the view just from that would be pretty spectacular, there’s even a sprinkling of stunning waterfalls to make the journey even more special – it’s a real crowd pleaser and a journey you will never forget.
With the help of calmer weather you can find in the summertime, it gives you the perfect opportunity to get out and really get to know the Fjords. Sognefjord is the longest and deepest Fjord in Norway – and the most famous in Norway. Its popular arm, Nærøyfjord, actually has a UNESCO World Heritage status and, alongside the Geirangerfjord, it has been rated the world’s number one heritage site – and yes, you will see them all on our Picturebook Norway tour, so don’t forget your camera.
Sognefjord
Whilst you may think the above alone seems like a pretty epic trip, there’s even more to see in the Fjordlands. The stunning Vøringfoss waterfall, the Bøyabreen glacier and the Hardanger Nature Museum, to name but a few. If nature is your thing, just think of the joy Norway will bring.
Leaving the Fjords, there’s still a lot more to Norway to keep that smile on your face! Its delightful towns and impressive cities offer plenty, even to the hardest to impress. From Bergen to the mighty Oslo, summertime really shines a light on these pretty spectacular destinations.
Full of history, and beaming with natural beauty, Norway’s second city, Bergen, is a true delight. The colourful facade of Bryggen is by far the most iconic sight you’ll see in the city, and it sure is beautiful.
Bryggen, Bergen
The Hanseatic Wharf is a great stop off point for a meal or a snack in the cafes and restaurants, enjoy a spot of shopping, or even just to enjoy the view.
Hot-footing it into Oslo, you’ll get time to enjoy the delightfully modern and diverse capital city and all the frills that come with it. A shopper’s paradise, a hub for culture and history and nature right at your fingertips.
Head down to the waterfront area where you can enjoy great bars, cosy cafes and fine restaurants, and enjoy the view over the Barcode’s skyscrapers, a delight to anyone with an interest in architecture.
Oslo Waterfront
With a host of interesting restaurants and cafes, and with the strikingly modern opera house sitting on the water’s edge, the enchanting juxtaposition between Oslo’s new and old will be one of the defining memories of your holiday. In conclusion, one thing is for sure, we could write a book on Norway and still feel like the words would still not do it justice. As they say, seeing is believing, and if you fancy the trip of a lifetime to the beautiful Norwegian Fjordland, find out more about our Picturebook Norway tour, right here.
Oskar Schindler’s name became known to millions following Liam Neeson’s brilliant 1993 on-screen performance as the larger-than-life character in Steven Spielberg’s Schindler’s List. Whilst this beautifully crafted film captured Schindler’s shrewd opportunism and supreme confidence, it did not satisfactorily explain his conversion from casual war profiteer to selfless hero.
This is entirely understandable, given that the film was based on Thomas Keneally’s book Schindler’s Ark (1982), which only briefly touched upon some of his pre-Krakow activities. Those activities included his direct involvement in espionage and undercover operations carried out by German Military intelligence (Abwehr) between 1936 and 1940.
A still from the film ‘Schindler’s List’
Given the nature of Schindler’s clandestine activities, it is hardly surprising that he remains a controversial and shadowy figure. According to Schindler’s own account, he joined Abwehr III Breslau in December 1936 after meeting the organisation’s chief, Admiral Wilhelm Canaris at a party. The unit to which he was attached principally dealt with code-breaking and radio monitoring.
Following reorganisation, his unit was redesignated as Abwehr II Breslau, tasked with carrying out espionage/counter-espionage and sabotage/counter-sabotage operations. During the fateful summer of 1938 which culminated in the Munich Crisis, he worked to provide Abwehr combat and sabotage teams with reliable maps and information on Czech troop movements and defences.
Oskar Schindler (L), Admiral Wilhelm Canaris. Head of Abwehr (R)
Schindler was a somewhat minor figure in Hitler’s plans to take over Czechoslovakia. Nevertheless, his activities did not go unnoticed by the Czech authorities. He was arrested on charges of espionage on 18 July 1938, tried and subsequently imprisoned. However, he was released early under the terms of the Munich Agreement.
Through much of August 1939, Schindler played a more significant role in Hitler’s planned invasion of Poland. Operating with Action Commando Unit VIII around the Sillein border region in Slovakia, Schindler smuggled arms and men across the border into Poland in preparation for clandestine combat operations. Later, he participated in operations to secure the strategically important rail tunnel and tracks which ran through the Jablunkov Pass.
The railway tunnel at the Jablunkov Pass
However, Hitler’s miscalculation regarding British and French guarantees to Poland led to the operation being hastily terminated as a result of his fear of provoking a general war. On 31 August, the carefully staged Gleiwitz Incident provided Hitler with his justification for attacking Poland. Schindler may well have had a role in procuring Polish uniforms for this SS orchestrated ruse de geurre designed to create the impression of Polish aggression along the German border. However, the evidence for his involvement is largely based on testimony from his estranged wife Emilie. As such, it needs to be treated with caution.
Following the occupation of Krakow by German forces in September 1939, Schindler moved to the city in the hope of resuming his business career. However, in reality, he never left Abwehr, as in 1940 he was sent on a mission to investigate difficulties affecting the flow of intelligence information from Turkey. It is also quite possible that his purchase of theEmalia factory was subsidised by his Abwehr controllers, who wished to use it as a front for their continued intelligence activities.
Main building, entrance to Oscar Schindler’s factory in Krakow, Poland
Working with Abwehr brought Schindler into close contact with some of the more unpleasant organs of the Nazi state. Consequently, he developed a distrust of the SS Security Service and the Secret Police, whose activities he regarded as beyond the pale. This distrust would later develop as a distaste for all aspects of Hitler’s terror state and would form the basis of the actions which led to him becoming the saviour of 1,100 Jews, who would certainly have perished without his intervention.
Unusual place names, they seem a million miles away… from the likes of Bunratty to Honningsvag, they’re the sort of destinations you’d have to grab at atlas to find out exactly where they are. And even then, it’s finding out just how far away they are can be pretty mid-boggling.
Well, the thing is, they’re probably closer than you think. We’ve put in some research and found some of Europe’s most unusual place names (and, funnily enough, we visit them on our tours too!) and have even found out just how many miles away they really are.
So, if you’re heading off on one of our tours to places you’ve not really heard of before, your unusual destination may just be on our list. Find out how far you’ll travel to get there with our fantastic new infographic.
Oberammergau, the German town nestled in the Bavarian Alps. It’s a stunning place to visit at any time, in fact, you may have seen it for yourself on one of our tours. But as we head towards the latter end of this decade, attention turns to one thing; The Oberammergau Passion Play.
The play will be back in 2020, marking its 42nd anniversary and it’s something that, here at Leger HQ, we’re really looking forward to.
It’s without a doubt one of our most popular additions, even though it only comes along once a decade! And, this year we’ve launched an exciting selection of tours taking you to the Passion Play along with exciting excursions throughout Germany, Italy and Austria. But, if you’re new to the play, or just wanting to learn a little more about it, here’s our beginners guide to the World Famous Oberammergau Passion Play…
What is the Oberammergau Passion Play?
The Oberammergau Passion Play is a religious play of the Christian faith, depicting the life, death and resurrection of Jesus Christ.
When did it start?
It came in the middle of the 30 Years’ War – after months of suffering, and death, from the plague, the Oberammergauers swore an oath to God that, on the promise that he would spare them from the spreading plague epidemic, they would perform the “Play of the Suffering, Death and Resurrection of Our Lord Jesus Christ”.
And, it seemed to work. In fact, there were said to be 20 people in 1000 that were dying from the bubonic plague! And, following the oath? There were no more deaths, and all the townspeople suffering, recovered. The villagers believed they had been spared and, sticking to their word, the stage was built for the inaugural show that took place in 1634.
When is it performed?
The play is performed every 10 years, the last one being in 2010 and the next to be in 2020. It runs for five months, from May to October.
In 2010 alone, there were 102 performances that took place!
Who stars in the Passion Play?
The Oberammergau Passion Play is performed solely by the residents of Oberammergau – and that’s written in law!
With so many shows, and such a large cast, it means that over half of the town’s 4000 residents come together to fill roles from actors to singers, instrumentalists and technicians.
But, it’s all worth it, as the play attracts over 500,000 guests who come from all over the world to witness the Passion Play.
How much preparation is involved?
The groundwork for each Passion Play is meticulous. In fact, the preparations for 2020 are already well underway.
The production team was chosen back in 2015, the final schedule released this year and the cast will be announced by the Spring of 2019, just in time for the male members to adhere to the village’s ‘Beard and Hair’ edict that demands that all actors must start growing their hair and beards by Ash Wednesday 2019. No shaving allowed.
What should we expect?
From sombre beginnings, the Oberammergau Passion Play has thrived and since become a Bavarian triumph, enjoyed by hundreds of thousands of people. It’s a play that the locals take great pride in, so you can be sure that your experience will be the finest.
From the play itself, delivering powerful performances, inspiring spoken texts and incredible music, there’s a leisurely 3 hour meal break during the play that allows you to enjoy a host of Bavarian treats from bratwurst to steins of beer. Plus, Oberammergau itself offers a stunning back drop to this open air experience, not to be missed.
Take a look at our Oberammergau packages and book today to secure your place on this globally popular experience.
This month marks the 72nd anniversary of the relief of Bergen-Belsen where more than 50,000 people perished through wilful neglect, including the young diarist, Anne Frank
Anne Frank’s posthumously published diary first appeared in print in 1947. Since then, it has become an international best seller, instantly recognisable to millions. Less recognisable, indeed largely unknown, is the posthumously published (1979) wartime diary of Etty Hillesum (An Interrupted Life), a young Dutch woman who was murdered in Auschwitz in November 1943.
Hillesum’s remarkable diary shares the same literary qualities as that of Anne Frank, which is hardly surprising as both aspired to be professional writers. Arguably, it is Anne Frank’s far more complex afterlife which has resulted in her much greater posthumous success and reinvention as a symbol of hope and forgiveness.
Mari Andriessen’s bronze statue of Anne Frank was conceived in 1975 and has stood on the Square of the Westerkerk since 1977
The reinvention of Anne Frank began with the publication of her diary in the United States in 1952. To make what Anne herself initially referred to as ‘the unbosomings of a thirteen-year-old schoolgirl’ more attractive to a wider (non Jewish) audience, the diary underwent a process of Americanisation, bowdlerisation and sentimentalisation.
This process extended even further with the dramatisation of the Diary of Anne Frank on Broadway in 1955 and the release of the Hollywood film (adapted from the stage production) four years later. Whilst both the play and the film were critical successes, neither captured the true essence of who Anne Frank really was.
Neither Susan Strasberg on stage, nor Millie Perkins on screen came close to capturing the mercurial and precocious young woman whose words have fascinated and inspired so many. Instead of highlighting her particular qualities, the version of Anne Frank presented to the world was a universal figure, designed above all to appeal to American youth.
Auschwitz-Birkenau. Here, after a three day journey from Westerbork, Anne and the other seven inhabitants of the secret annex were selected for labour.
This distorted, reduced, infantilised and decontextualised figure was even furnished with a happy ending. In true Broadway and Hollywood style, the adaptations of her story conclude with those lines in her diary about believing that people were good at heart.
However, we know that in reality, there was no happy ending. As such, the decontextualising of her good-at-heart passage represents the literary equivalent of plucking a rose from a bed of thorns. The impact of that decontextualised passage has nonetheless been enormous, as from it, she has come to be recognised as a universal symbol of hope and forgiveness.
In recent years, the story of Anne Frank has been subject to literary interpretations, or re-imaginings, most notably Philip Roth’s novel The Ghost Writer (1979) and Sharon Dogar’s Annexed (2010).
The symbolic grave marker for Anne Frank and her sister Margot at Bergen-Belsen
Whilst both are written with a degree of sensitivity, neither help us to understand the true story, that of a life of great promise cut tragically short in the most terrible of circumstances.
For me, as a guide, it is important to distinguish between the crafted image of Anne Frank and the real person. Therefore, on The Holocaust Remembered tour, we take in the locations which serve to inform us about her real life and the circumstances of her death.
In a sense, Anne Frank lives on through her diary. However, we know that she isn’t alive, as this ordinary, yet extraordinary young woman was buried in a mass grave in Bergen-Belsen in late February 1945. That is what makes her story so unbearable and yet so fascinating. Furthermore, it is what makes this tour such an emotional, yet rewarding experience.
Anne Frank and the other seven inhabitants of the secret annex were sent on the very last transport from Westerbork to Auschwitz in September 1944
With Easter just around the corner, we decided that we’d like to dedicate some time to acknowledge one of Europe’s sweetest countries, and no, we don’t just mean because of its small size…
If you’re looking forward to tucking into some Easter eggs this weekend, you’ll certainly be intrigued by the fact that Belgium produces a whopping 220,000 tonnes of chocolate per year! But that’s not all that this wonderful country has to offer, from canal side cities, to beautiful beers, almighty Christmas markets and coastal treasures, you’ll certainly not be bored in Belgium.
Dig into our blog, and see why Belgium should not be overlooked when planning your next visit to Europe.
Food glorious food!
Belgium is renowned for its famous variety of delicious delicacies, from the obvious traditional chocolates to deep-fried frites, whilst in Belgium, be sure to indulge in some tasty treats…
As we all know, Belgium is celebrated for its chocolate. There are over 2000 chocolatiers in the country, which is also home to famous brands such as Côte d’Or and Belvas, and Brussels airport is the largest chocolate selling point in the world.
The delicacy has been associated with the country since the 17th century and since then the industry has remained rife. So, as you saunter the streets in Belgium, ensure you pay a visit to a traditional chocolate shop, for a taste sensation you’ll never forget!
Chocolate is not the only sweet treat that the country can claim though, it is also home to the wonderful Belgian waffle. There are two types of Belgium waffle, the Brussels and the Liege. The Brussels waffle is rectangular and bigger than the Liege.
They are also crispy on the outside and light and airy on the inside, and traditionally served topped with whipped cream and strawberries. The Liege waffle is more oval shaped, they are softer, doughier, a lot more flavourful and sweeter, meaning that they are often served without toppings. We’d definitely recommend trying both types whilst in Belgium!
And, if you’re more of a savoury person, you certainly need to ensure that you indulge in some frites. Although the French claim to have invented french fries, the delicious delicacy can actually be traced back to Belgium. It is rumoured that the potato based delights inherited the name the french fries during WW1, when American soldiers, thinking they were in France, called them french fries instead of fried potatoes.
So, if you’ve had a few too many Belgian beers, or you need something to keep you going as you explore the many wonderful streets of the Belgian cities, frites are certainly the way to go!
But where can we find all these tasty treats, you ask?
Well, Belgium is also home to some pretty amazing cities. From the fashion capital of Antwerp, to the canal side city of Bruges, the seaside resort of Ostend and the hidden gem that is Ghent… all waiting to be explored.
Antwerp, one of Belgium’s ‘coolest’ cities, has become increasingly popular with tourists over the past few years, and it’s not hard to see why… Home to Europe’s second largest port and regarded as the world’s diamond capital, Antwerp boasts a lively shopping scene, classic architecture and a host of trendy cafes and coffee shops, making Belgium’s second largest city the place to be.
Belgium’s most underrated city is quite possibly glorious Ghent. This hidden gem is a marvel to behold. Small and cosy, the University City is full of spectacular sights, marvellous museums, and like Bruges, pretty canal side architecture. It’s walkable and the city’s cobbled streets are super easy to get around.
Also, as Ghent is not yet as popular as its neighbouring Bruges and Antwerp, the town is not full of tourists, giving it a calm and welcoming feel and allowing you to take in the city’s sights at your own pace… But hurry, before everyone realises just how amazing Ghent is, which we doubt will be long.
Ostend, the ‘Queen of Belgium’s seaside resorts’, is definitely on our list of places you must visit. The coastal city features five and a half miles of sandy beaches, plus a fantastic promenade lined with shops, bars and restaurants which serve spectacular seafood, and many museums that must be explored.
Last, but certainly not least, we have to mention the Beautiful Bruges, the golden child of Belgian tourism. Bruges is a truly beautiful city and has been popular with tourists for many years. Being the focal point of the hit movie ‘In Bruges’ and being one of the world’s best preserved medieval cities certainly helped the canal side city earn its status. But with so much to see, from the Belfry to the Beer Wall, Basilica of Holy Blood to pretty canals, and with an all-round amazing atmosphere, we’re not surprised that Bruges is so popular.
Belgian Beer & Spirits
With over 180 breweries in the country, producing over a thousand different types of beer, it’s certainly safe to say that Belgium is a haven for those with a taste for the beverage.
There’s something for everyone, with a great diversity of flavours from sweet to fruity, to bitter or spicy. And, as an added novelty, almost every beer is served in its own unique glass, which is said to bring out the exclusive flavours and tastes of the different beers, making drinking Belgian beer an experience as well as a taste sensation.
The beer glasses also make for a brilliant souvenir and can be bought from almost any gift shop in the country. One of the most distinctive glasses is that of the Kwak beer, shaped like a vase, it has a rounded bottom, meaning it can’t stand without its unique wooden holder – make sure you order one and check it out whilst in the country.
Possibly the most popular types of beers produced in Belgium are the Trappist beers, and there are only eleven brewers in the world that can claim this prized label, six of which are located in Belgium. To be able to claim to be a Trappist beer, the beer must be produced by Trappist monks, in a Trappist monastery and it is a century’s old tradition. There are many different types, but the Orval, Westvleteren 12 and the Westmalle Dubbel are some of the favourites.
Not only do the beers range in flavours, the way in which they are produced, and the vessel in which they are served, but they also range from a low alcoholic percentage to a whopping 11-12%, so be careful not to have too much of the stronger stuff, but do ensure you enjoy a tipple or two of the amber nectar…
As well as beer, Belgium is also famous for Genever. Pronounced ‘Juh-nee-ver”, Genever is a flavoured spirit, which is often referred to as the ‘grandfather of gin’, as it is a juniper flavoured drink. It has been Belgium’s traditional spirit for over 500 years and not a lot of people know about it, so be sure to give it a try when you visit this beautiful country
Christmas Markets
Finally, how could we forget the festive markets? From the month of November, right through to the New Year, the cities of Belgium are transformed into fairy tale market places.
Pretty lights, festive decorations, Christmas trees and even ice rinks line the streets, as visitors flock from near and far to do their Christmas shopping. Browse the many stalls, all selling a wonderful array of traditional gifts, whilst you Indulge in some tasty treats from the many street food stalls, enjoy a Belgian waffle washed down with a warm hot chocolate, or enjoy a tipple of two of mulled wine.
Whilst Bruges, Lille and Ypres etc., all host some amazingly magical markets, Brussels Christmas market certainly is a show stopper. Not only does Brussels house fascinating monuments and amazing architecture, it really does have one of the best Christmas markets in Europe. With over 200 market stalls spanning from the Grand Place, the capital city is brought to life with twinkling lights, wonderful aromas and gorgeous garlands. A Ferris wheel allows you to see the markets from above, and a huge ice rink provides fun for all the family.
If you’re a fan of the Christmas spirit and you want a change from the busy shopping malls this holiday season, take a look at our Belgian Christmas Markets. So, as you can see Belgium is certainly not boring, but don’t just take our word for it. Head over to our website and take a look at the tours we have on offer to Belgium, one of Europe’s sweetest countries.
