Are you thinking of heading off on a tour of Italy? Or maybe you’re thinking about heading off on your first coach tour? Dave Tarbrook took his first ever coach holiday on our Rome, Pompeii and picturesque Capri tour earlier this year. Read his blog documenting his tour from the coach to the sights and how he found the experience on his first Leger holiday.
This was my first ever coach holiday and first time with Leger Holidays, but I was not disappointed!
Coach Journey & Hotel
I was unsure what to expect with regards to travelling by coach, but the silver service coach was very comfortable indeed with ample leg room, a reclining seat and superb, knowledgeable and professional driver and co-driver – Damien & Steve. From the moment I stepped on the coach I received a warm welcome and was very much looked after.
The coach journey itself was rather long, travelling through France, Switzerland and finally reaching my destination – Italy, but there were plenty of comfort stops and films were screened along the way which broke up the journey. Hot and cold drinks were served throughout which was great!
On reaching the hotel in Fiuggi, again we received a warm welcome from the owners who could not do enough for the coach party. The hotel was set in a beautiful little hill top town and was very clean, tidy with a comfortable room. This holiday offered bed and breakfast only, but guests were able to dine in the restaurant during the evening for a reasonable cost should they choose. The hotel itself was approximately a 5 – 10 minute walk away from the town, where there were ample restaurants and bars available, offering food and drink again at a very reasonable cost.
Trevi Fountain, Rome
Pompeii
Picturesque Capri
Sight Seeing
The scheduled sightseeing tours were superb! The beautiful Montecassino Monastery with its grand opulence and the fascinating trip to Pompeii was just out of this world! For a reasonable price, guests were able to opt into a guided tour around Pompeii and I am very pleased that I did, as it ensured that I got the very best out of this vast historical site. The trip to Rome had to be the highlight for me! On our 9 day tour we visited Rome twice. During the first Trip, we visited the Coliseum, The Spanish steps and Trevi Fountain, which were spectacular. On our second visit, we visited the Vatican and Sistine Chapel. Again, optional tours were offered which were very informative, ensuring that guests once again got the most from their time spent in Rome. During the tour, we were offered the opportunity to go to either the island of Capri or visit the town of Sorrento. I decided to visit the beautiful town of Sorrento, which has great shops and plenty of restaurants offering fantastic Italian cuisine! The final trip to Frascati and Castell Gondolfo was great! We went to taste the wine and had a light lunch of bread, cheese, meat and olives… Following this, we had the opportunity to buy the local Frascati wine, which of course I did!!!
All in all, this was a great holiday and I met some truly wonderful people in our coach party. I would definitely recommend this holiday to anyone who has not visited Italy and very much recommend Ledger Tours which was extremely professional from the initial booking, right the way through the holiday itself!
Thanks for a superb and memorable holiday!
Dave
Do you have any suggestions to people taking a coach holiday for the first time? Leave your comments below.
Here at Leger we offer a fantastic selection of different and exciting tours, ranging from the classic sights of Europe to experiencing live events such as the Formula One Grand Prix. However, one experience that we are particularly proud of is our walking tours. We have taken our customers hiking through the Austrian mountains to walking in the footsteps of heroes through the Battlefields of World War One. Our Marketing Director, Huw Williams, loves walking and in turn has chosen our Walking in the Italian Süd Tirol tour as his Directors Choice. Huw has kindly answered some of our frequently asked questions about his tour and walking tours in general.
What is a walking holiday and what does it entail?
A walking holiday with Leger is a combination of a coach holiday with sightseeing opportunities combined with graded, guided walks through beautiful, interesting scenery.
As your Directors’ Choice, what made you choose this tour?
I had never visited the Italian Sud Tirol, a destination we’ve specialised in for 30 years, so I thought it was about time!
My wife (who accompanied me) and I also love walking, so it seemed to be the ideal combination. It was a Silver Service departure, too, so that made it even more appealing as I am quite tall and appreciate the extra legroom.
What are the perks of a walking holiday?
The fresh air and exercise in amazing, scenic surroundings give you a real sense of contentment and well-being. A chance to take a step back (excuse the pun) from day-to-day demands and appreciate the simple pleasures of life….one of which is spending time with a small group of walking companions and making new friends.
Are the walks taken as a group or do you go your own pace?
All walks are accompanied by an experienced guide and the group walks together. Inevitably, people walk at different paces and this is catered for, within certain limits.
What did you expect before heading off on the tour and was there anything that left you pleasantly surprised?
Our walking guide, Christina
The tour mostly met my expectations, which it should considering my job! However, my expectations were exceeded by: the comfort of Silver Service and the performance of our drivers; the amazing hospitality at our hotel in Uttenheim, the zum Schlossl (Anna is such a good cook); the friendliness and expertise of our walking guide, Christina; and especially the truly stunning scenery of the Sud Tirol. It was breath-taking.
Is a walking holiday suitable for single travellers?
Absolutely, there were several guests travelling on their own and, to my knowledge, had a great time. Coach and walking holidays are perfect for getting to know your fellow travellers quickly and making new friends.
Which was your favourite walk of the tour?
The Waldner Pilgrimage, from Prettau up to  the Waldner Alm. It had unbelievable views. But every walk was rewarding in its own right because of the varied features of each one.
What would you say to people who think they aren’t fit or experienced enough to try a walking holiday?
A reasonable level of fitness is important. If you rarely take exercise or have mobility issues, our walking holidays are not suitable for you.
However, if you’re a regular walker, whether over gentle or more challenging terrain, we’ll have something to suit because our walks are graded according to difficulty.
I would certainly recommend you do some preparation beforehand, though. It will enhance your enjoyment. And ensure you have suitable boots and clothing.
It doesn’t matter if you’re inexperienced because all walks are fully guided and you will receive pre-walk briefings and lots of tips and advice to help you get the most from each day.
What advice would you give to someone about to head off on their first walking holiday?
Savour every moment and take lots of pictures to remind you what a wonderful time you had…until the next time, that is. Believe me, once you’ve done it you’ll want to go again.
What three words would you use to sum up your experience on this tour?
Exhilarating, friendly, fun.
And finally, given the choice of any European country, which would you personally choose as an ideal walking tour destination?
For me, it’s the mountain scenery I find irresistible. Therefore, it probably has to be somewhere in the Alps. The Italian Sud Tirol fits the bill and that’s probably because it used to be part of Austria until the end of the First World War. So, as I love everything about Austria, I would choose it as my ideal European walking destination. Maybe I’ll choose Walking in the Austrian Tyrol for my next Directors’ Choice!
Here are some of Huw’s fantastic photos from his Directors Choice tour, Walking in the Italian Sud Tirol, this tour is available to view here
If you’d like to take a look at the fantastic choice of walking tours available to book now, click here.
Ever wondered where the scariest, spookiest and most haunted places are in Europe? Does the idea of chasing ghost and ghouls sound like the perfect holiday? This Halloween let us take you around the continent to set the scene for the perfect ghost stories to share this All Hallows’ Eve.
1.
The Tower of London
Regarded one of the most haunted places in Europe, the tower of London has a history going back 900 years of torture and execution. The most famous of spirits said to be wandering within the walls of this iconic building is the Ghost of Anne Boleyn. One of the fated wives of Henry the VIII, her headless body is said to have been spotted close the scene of her demise.
2.
Chateau de Brissac, France
Built in the 11th century, this castle has spooked many a visitor. A gruesome double murder in the 15th century has left a lasting spirit roaming the halls of this magnificent castle. ‘The Green Lady’ as she is known, is said to have terrified guests with her ghoulish groan echoing around the corridors in the early hours. More terrifyingly, the guests who claim to have seen her have said her corpse-like face features holes where her eyes and nose should be.
3.
Babenhausen Barracks, Germany
Used during multiple wars to house German soldiers whose spirits have never left. It has been claimed the ghosts of World War 2 soldiers in full military gear have been spotted as lights turn on and off by themselves and voices have been heard coming from the basement. Now a museum, soldiers that have visited have picked up a ringing telephone are said to have heard a lady talking backwards. In the town of Babenhausen rumours of a witch was burned at the stake are prominent with her ghost said to have seduced and killed several German Soldiers.
4.
Poveglia Island, Italy
Sat in the Venetian lagoon is the small island of Poveglia. The island became populated when mainlanders fled to escape invaders. By the 14th Century the island was completely deserted, however, when the plague hit, the island was used as a quarantine colony with Venetians sent there to die. Their bodies were said to subsequently be burned on giant pyres. The site was also said to be used as a mental asylum in the 1800’s with stories of experimental procedures with stories of ill treatment and suicide rife in the city. Today, the island sits abandoned with locals daring not to set foot on the island for fear of being cursed. The ghosts of past patients are said to haunt the island with screams and voices often being heard, there has also been stories of violent possessions by evil spirits.
5.
Edinburgh Castle
An outstanding landmark, situated overlooking the city of Edinburgh. Once again the scene of many battles and tortures, it is thought to be one of the most haunted castles in the world. Visitors claim to have been touched and pulled and sightings of ghoulish figures include a headless drummer boy and a piper who had apparently got lost in the tunnels below the castle and subsequently lost his life.
6.
Corvin Castle, Transylvania
Best known to be the home of Count Dracula but also Vlad the Impaler. Vlad was known for his excessive cruelty and his nickname ‘The Impaler’ came about as he was notorious for his practice of impaling his enemies. The Corvin Castle is said to have been where historical figure was held in captivity as strange sightings have been reported of vampire-like figures appearing in flickering candle-light.
7.
Leap Castle, Ireland
Widely regarded the most haunted castle in Ireland, it boasts a history of murders and massacres. It is said to be haunted by spirits seeking vengeance for their untimely murders. The castle is thought to have been built by the O’Carrol family who apparently had a habit of murdering people and dumping the bodies down a hole in the castle wall. Hauntings are said to take place in the ‘Bloody Chapel’ where it’s thought the murders took place.
8.
Convent of St Agnes, Prague
Prague is said to be one of the most haunted cities in Europe and the Convent of St Agnes, situated in the world famous city, does not disappoint. Apparently haunted by the ‘Murdered Nun’, her legacy began when, as a girl, was said to be ordered to the convent by her noble father after falling in love with a poor knight. The night before she was due to leave she decided to follow her heart and met with her love. She was also met there by her father who, in a fit of rage, fatally stabbed her for shaming him. She is said to be seen in her ghostly form covered in blood and weeping bitterly.
9.
Nidaros Cathedral, Norway
This imposing cathedral in the town of Trondheim is said to house the spirit of a Monk who has been described as a tall figure with a dark habit, a monks tonsure, glowing eyes and blood dripping from a cut in his throat. He reveals himself to church goers and is said to often sever his head from his body and walk straight through church goers.
Happy Halloween! Fancy seeing some ghoulishly gorgeous scenery for yourself? Take a look through our European tours for a fangtastic time.
When it comes to the perfect romantic getaway, it would be hard for you to not picture the gorgeously crafted gondolas floating down one of the many water ways of spectacular Venice. It’s most certainly one of the most alluring places on earth. Gondolas, masked balls and beautiful palaces are a few things that may come to mind when picturing a Venetian experience.
Located in the Venetian lagoon it is a part of a group of 180 small islands connected by canals and bridges. The city, in its entirety including the lagoon, is listed as a world heritage site and is famous for its canals, architecture and its unofficial mascot, the pigeon. Known as one of the world’s sinking cities, Venice is thought to still be suffering from subsidence which, along with the ‘elegant decay’ of its opulent buildings really does make Venice one of the most popular tourist destinations on the globe.
Here at Leger, we offer a variety of Italian escapes that include Venice as part of the itinerary so we thought we’d compile a list of some of our favourite things to see and do to really make the most of your time here.
Get lost in Venice
It’s extremely easy to get lost in Venice, some would say inevitable. A combination of the narrow streets and the tall buildings could confuse any seasoned tourist. The best way to get around Venice is to truly get lost and see the sights that you didn’t expect to see. Do not fret, the locals are extremely friendly and you will be surprised how easily they will get you back to where you need to be. Of course, if that doesn’t take your fancy, we have some excellent tour guides to show you around.
Visit the piazza San Marco.
Napoleon referred to it as the ‘drawing room of Europe’. St Mark’s Square (as it is known in English) is the principle public square of Venice and attracts thousands of tourists each day. Flanked on the eastern end by the Saint Mark’s Basilica and leaving you in prime positions to view the Doge Palace, one of the major Venetian landmarks. It really is a sight and experience not to be missed.
Take a tour of the Grand Canal.
The Grand Canal snakes right through Venice, lined by 170 buildings, it is the main water way in the city. Whilst the waterway may now full of tourist boats, it does not take much imagination to value the importance of the water way in past times when it was primary to the wealth through trade and commerce. Why not climb aboard a Vaporetto to get the best view of this famous canal?
Take a ride in a Gondola.
A feature on many a person’s bucket list, floating down the canal on a gondola is one of the most iconic things to experience whilst in Venice. One way to really enhance your gondola experience is to opt for a singing gondolier alongside a musician. It’s one of the prime ways to see the famous sights of this exquisite city.
Visit Casino Venier
Casino Venier dates back to 1750 and is one of the best of its kind. In its prime attracting Venice’s elite to flirt, dance and gamble, it’s a great way to get a feel of how the Venetians used to live. It is located on the first floor of a nondescript building over-looking the Barateri Canal and, best of all, it’s completely free to visit.
Take in Santa Maria della Salute
One of Venice’s most iconic buildings, dominating the entrance to the Grand Canal it is known simply as the salute. Built after 150,000 venetians were tragically killed by the plague, the church was built as promise to god to honour the Virgin Mary in return to stop the plague. In turn, the plague was stopped in its tracks. On the 21st November, The Festa della Salute begins, the citizens of Venice lay a pontoon bridge over the canal from the San Marco district to honour the Virgin Mary. Many Gondoliers will bring their oars to be blessed by a priest who recites his incantations from the church steps, a magnificent sight.
And finally… Try some Gelato
A hard earned treat, after all that walking the best way to tie up your trip around the iconic city is to sample the famous Italian ice cream. Why not visit Gelataria Nico known to be the oldest ice cream shop in Venice.
For more information regarding our tours including Venice, take a look at our Italian Tours page.
The first time I visited the capital of the south coast of Spain, Málaga, some 15 years ago, cultural enrichment wasn’t exactly on my mind. I’ll admit it; I did like many expats in this region and followed my heart (or my Andalusian boyfriend, in this case). The love affair didn’t last very long, but little did I know that it would lead to a far deeper and longer-lasting relationship with what has come to be the city of my dreams.
Most fist-time visitors to Málaga (or those who first move here) tend to spend endless weeks on the beach, toasting their skin to golden perfection and enjoying Málaga’s most famous delicacy: coal-barbecued sardines on a spit, cooked in a fire built in little wooden boats, which grace most of Málaga’s famed frontline restaurants, called chiringuitos. When it comes to chiringuitos, of course, the word ‘restaurant’ doesn’t quite fit; most are informal, meant to be frequented by sand-strewn holidaymakers. Chiringuitos are built on wooden decks, under thatched roofing, a few steps away from the beach. They are the perfect reason to stay seaside all day; whenever one feels parched or hungry, a cool sangria and plate of paella are just a stone’s throw away.
As one matures and the fear of skin cancer takes hold, , priorities begin to change. As what in our mind has always been a sleepy seaside tourist town becomes the place we live, work and build our family in, we seek a more profound connection to its natural landscape, history and culture. In many ways, my decision to live and make my life in Málaga in 1996 coincided with the transformation of this coastal capital into an impressive cultural hub.
If you are a traveller who likes to combine the very best of Nature, culture and shopping, Málaga is an ideal choice. This is a mountainous city, offering keen trekkers and mountain bikers alike a vertiginous experience. The mountains can be enjoyed by children, too; in Benalmádena, a 10-minute drive away from the capital, there is a fun cable car experience that takes you to the summit of one of the most expansive mountain ranges in the area. From above, you can view the beauty of the coastline and enjoy an amazing falconry show featuring wild eagles, hawks and the like. Following your descent, few things could be better than heading for the beach and enjoying a hearty lunch.
One of the best things about the South of Spain is how far your dollar or pound goes here. Many venues offer a three-course meal (including a glass of wine) for under £8, though if you’re after a gourmet experience, you should probably head for Marbella – 30-minute car ride from Málaga, Marbella is a famed destination for high-end residential tourism and it boasts everything the discerning travel could demand, including gourmet restaurants. For a true taste sensation, try two-Michelin-starred Chef, Dani GarcÃa’s new restaurants at the Puente Romano Hotel. The first of these, Dani GarcÃa Restaurant, offers an amazing tasting menu inspired on the world of fairytales. The second, Bibo, is a haven of gourmet tapas whipped up with revolutionary techniques, including the use of liquid nitrogen to ‘freeze’ sorbets that melt ever so slowly in the mouth. Marbella has its own Rodeo Drive on the luxurious port of Puerto Banús, with stores such as Louis Vuitton and Jimmy Choo attracting affluent shoppers from around the world. Budget travellers need not fear spending more than they can afford, however; if one’s focus is cultural rather than material, there are many museums and galleries to keep you occupied. Let’s whiz back to the city centre of Málaga, where you will find these treasures:
The Málaga Car Museum: Launched in 2010, this museum is dedicated to art on wheels: keen motorists will find over 90 classic cars, hailing from the collection of avid car buff, Joao Manuel Magalhaes. www.museoautomovilmalaga.com
The Carmen Thyssen Museum: Famed art collector, the Baroness Carmen Thyssen, ceded an extensive part of her impressive collection of 19th century Andalusian themed to the province of Málaga, to enable the opening of the Carmen Thyssen Museum. This is a great museum to visit in under an hour, since the collection is presented in such a way that it is very easy to appreciate the stylistic and thematic development of art in the 19th century. Early works are highly stylised at first, then progress into a more realistic style. Finally, the focus of the paintings is more on cosmopolitan subjects rather than regional ones. www.carmenthyssenmalaga.org/en
The Glass and Crystal Museum: If you have just one day to visit a museum, let it be this one. Housed in an old Andalusian mansion in the very heart of the city, it contains the private collection of Cambridge scholar, Dr. Gonzalo Fernandez Prieto, who gives tours of his extensive collection in both English and Spanish. There are over 3,000 pieces to wow at, though what really makes the visit special is Fernandez Prieto’s wit and sheer passion for glass and crystal. Discover delightful historical facts, anecdotes and information about the ancient art of glass and crystal design and manufacture. www.museovidrioycristalmalaga.com/
The Contemporary Art Centre: This museum is one of the most impressive in terms of size, since it contains a vast number of artworks from the 20th and 21st centuries and has housed exhibitions by some of the world’s most renowned artists, including Louise Bourgeois or Ron Mueck. www.cacmalaga.org
The Picasso Museum of Málaga: Picasso is arguably Málaga’s famous son (alongside Antonio Banderas). View over 230 of the artist’s works, donated by his family. www.museopicassomalaga.org
Last but not least, do pay a visit to the Cervantes Theatre, 19th century jewel which offers fantastic opera, dance and music performances. www.teatrocervantes.com. If you are travelling with kids, take them to a theatrical performance at the Teatro Echegaray. www.teatroechegaray.com
Known for its many fountains, famous artists and impressive architecture, next stop on my tour of Provence and the Dordogne was the charming town of Aix en Provence.
The final city visit on our tour of the Italian Riviera, Tuscany and Rome was the Renaissance city of Florence, a city that was mentioned quite a bit in my art history lessons.
It was a warm and sunny day as we travelled into Florence, or Firenze as it’s known locally, heading firstly to a viewpoint high above the city. Florence sits in the valley of the River Arno and is surrounded by hills and mountains, and it was from the hilltop location of Piazzale Michelangelo that we were given an excellent view over the whole city with the rich terracotta dome of the cathedral’s mighty Duomo dominating the panorama. This is the shot that appears on many postcards so it’s the one to take for your album! Below us the River Arno ran past the pastel-coloured buildings and under the famous Ponte Vecchio which we could see over to the left.
Michelangelo’s statue of David (well, one of them) stands in the centre of Piazzale Michelangelo, looking over the city
At Piazzale Michelangelo, along with many people taking photos and posing for pictures for their album, there was a replica of Michelangelo’s statue of David, one of the masterpieces of Renaissance sculpture. Apart from that, the square itself wasn’t much to look at – but we were there for the view and that was incredible! Once everyone had the photographs they wanted we headed down towards the centre to meet our guide who would introduce us to her city.
Florence was once surrounded by high defensive walls and towers, and the Tower of the Mint, (Torre della Zecca) which we walked past on our way into the city was part of those walls. This tower was once connected to a string of buildings which were powered by water, and one of these was the Florence Mint (Zecca fiorentina) where the city’s golden florins were made.
Torre della Zecca – Tower of the Mint
Our guide led us past the Mint Tower and along Via dei Malcontenti, a narrow street sandwiched between cream-coloured buildings. This was apparently the road that criminals were led along to the public gallows, and so it was given the name Malcontenti – ‘malcontent’ meaning unhappy.
After a while, after passing the Franciscan church of Santa Croce with its grand marble façade and weaving our way through the narrow streets of the city, we came out at the Piazza della Signoria, dominated by the huge bell tower; the belfry of the Palazzo Vecchio (Old Palace). This is the city hall of Florence and it was in front of the building that I spotted another reproduction of Michelangelo’s David, the most famous statue on the square. The real one, created in 1504, used to stand here but it was removed and placed in the Accademia di Belle Arti Firenze.
The belfry of the Palazzo Vecchio on Piazza della Signoria…… and another ‘David’!
The square was buzzing with a great atmosphere – apparently it’s one of the most popular meeting spots for locals and tourists alike. Across from the city hall was the contrasting sight of designer stores being browsed by well-dressed shoppers and people strolling around trying to eat their colourful ‘gelato’ before it melted in the warm sunshine. Being a girl who doesn’t like shopping (yes, weird, I know!) I opted instead to join the gelato speed-eaters.
Frantically trying to keep the ice cream in its cone, I walked over to the large equestrian statue of Cosimo I de’ Medici standing just beside the city hall. Cosimo was famous for, amongst other things, the creation of the Uffizi which adjoins the Palazzo Vecchio and is now one of the most famous museums in the world, housing one of the greatest collations of art – most of it from the Renaissance period. Works by some of the greatest Italian artists are held here: names such as Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Botticelli and Giotto, again, names I remembered from the A-Level art classes of my school days. This was one place I would’ve loved to visit to bring to life all those paintings I’d studied in my text books… to see early works by Giotto; Botticelli’s Birth of Venus and Caravaggio’s Bacchus; all images I still remember. But it was time to move on.
The statue of Cosimo I de’ Medici stands proudly on Piazza della Signoria
Our guide escorted us along the busy pedestrian street of Via die Calzaiuoli, home to many designer and high street names, a pizzeria here and there and quite a few places to buy those all important ice creams. The sweet smell of crepes and waffles led us along the alleyway until it opened up to reveal the breathtaking Piazza del Duomo. A couple of hours earlier we’d seen the huge domed roof of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore from the hillside across the river. Now we were up close, and it was truly magnificent.
Arriving at Piazza del Duomo – the magnificent Giotto’s Tower and the Duomo
Right in front of us was the huge structure of Giotto’s Bell Tower. The column stands at almost 300 feet high and amongst its green, pink and white marble and displays intricate scenes. At the top, our guide advised us, the tower has 7 bells. We decided not to join the queues waiting to climb the 400+ steps to the top for a closer look and instead took her word for it.
Giotto’s Tower up close: the beautiful green, pink and white marbleLook at the detail!
The Dome itself, designed and built by Filippo Brunelleschi, is equally impressive. More than 600 years after it was constructed the ‘Duomo’, as it’s known, still remains the tallest building in Florence. The cathedral is also the 4th largest in the world – the first is St. Peter’s in Rome, the second, St. Paul’s in London and the third, Milan’s Duomo.
The magnificent ‘Duomo’
A short walk through the network of bustling passageways took us to the oldest bridge in Florence, the Ponte Vecchio. I’d seen photos of this bridge spanning the River Arno and always thought it looked rather plain, so I wanted to visit it for myself and find out why this well-known landmark is so popular.
The Ponte Vecchio was once the only bridge across the River Arno and the only bridge in Florence that wasn’t destroyed by Germans during WWII. Since the 13th century there have been shops on the bridge. Originally they housed fishmongers, greengrocers, butchers and tanners – the waste from which created a rather unpleasant smell in the river, so much so that in 1593 it was ordered that only jewellers and goldsmiths would be allowed to have shops on the Ponte Vecchio, making the bridge a much cleaner and attractive place to visit. Today, the bridge is still lined with jewellery stores attracting hundreds – probably thousands – of visitors each year.
The Ponte Vecchio – the oldest bridge in Florence
Approaching the bridge I saw the familiar sight of the construction and, even ‘in the flesh’, it struck me how ordinary it looked – a jumble of mustard and reddy-coloured buildings which looked as if they’d been stuck onto the main structure. As I got closer I could see just how ramshackle it appeared. Once on the bridge, however, it was a different story. The place had a great atmosphere and was brought to life by the crowds of people gathered around the stalls and the wares of the gold and silver smiths which twinkled in contrast to the dilapidated appearance of the bridge’s exterior.
Colourful ‘add-ons’ cling to the bridgePonte Vecchio, on the inside
So, I can now say that I’ve visited Florence’s oldest bridge. It hadn’t contradicted my view of it as a rather plain and uninspiring landmark and I think there are much more impressive places to visit in the city, but I’d seen it for myself. The visit to Florence had given me a good overview of the capital of Tuscany, a brief history of the city and some of its landmarks, and of the sights I’d like to return to – namely the Uffizi Gallery.
Leaving the Ponte Vecchio and walking back along the Arno river, our visit to the Renaissance city had come to an end; another place to tick off my ‘must visit’ list… and another place I’d have to return to, one day.
Have you been to Florence? Share your stories and comments with us here!
Passing through neat rows of grapevines and rolling green fields stretching as far as the eye could see, we continued with our tour of Provence and the Dordogne on our way to the charming walled city of Avignon.
We made our way through the charming streets to the Place du Palais – the second of two main squares in Avignon, dominated by the huge palace which was home to Roman Catholic popes for almost 70 years during the 14th century. Climbing the stone steps we entered the palace for an audio tour around the enormous building with its grand halls, manicured lawn and spacious courtyards. The climb up to the roof terrace was well worth the effort – the reward was an excellent view over the city, the river and the famous broken bridge.
The streets led us to the busy Place du PalaisGreat views over Avignon
For many years the Pont d’Avignon was the only stone bridge along the 186 mile stretch of the river Rhône between Lyon and the Mediterranean sea. Over the years the structure was damaged and many of its original 22 arches were swept away by the choppy flood waters of the Rhône. The crumbling bridge had to be constantly repaired until the 17th century when the cost of rebuilding and continual maintenance became too much for the city of Avignon to bear and the bridge gradually weakened. In time, the surviving arches collapsed leaving the four that remain today.
Bags of Lavender are everywhere!
After our palace tour we walked through the city’s tangle of narrow cobbled backstreets, past souvenir shops emitting the sweet smell of lavender from the pretty little bags swinging from displays and out onto the road which runs alongside the Rive Rhône. The oatmeal-coloured stone stood out brightly against the brilliant blue sky as we crossed over the road to get to the medieval bridge. Climbing the steps I could see that the bridge was quite busy with visitors, maybe some of them dressmakers and grape growers wanting to dance ‘sur le Pont d’Avignon’?
Heading across the bridge leaving behind the Palais des Papes
I quickstepped my way through the crowd, desperate to get all the way over to the other side, since it was the view from the banking on the other side of the river that I’d seen all the postcards and in brochures and wanted to capture for myself. Faster and faster I tried to weave through the crowd, camera at the ready. After a few ‘excusez-moi’s, I emerged from the throng of people… and realised… I was trying to cross ‘the broken bridge’.
It was just half an hour until our coach would be departing, but not one to be defeated I did a quick about-turn back through the crowds and with a few more ‘excusez moi’s, rushed back down the steps, along the river bank to the next bridge, over the bridge and down the other side of the Rhône. Walking as fast as my legs would carry me, I jumped over the extended rods of fishermen sitting on the river bank, breaking into a run through a large group of pigeons being fed by families – causing the birds to scatter in all directions – and locals taking their dogs for a leisurely walk.
Back over the bridge at an even quicker pace, I made it back to the coach with time to spare and collapsed into my seat, out of breath, but happy that I’d got the shot I wanted.
THE shot: the broken bridge, in all its splendour
Have you been to Avignon? Share your stories and comments with us! We’d love to hear from you!
It was 8.30am and already a very warm 30º as we left our hotel heading to the island of KorÄula (pronounced ‘Korchula’).
It was day seven of our Dubrovnik and the Dalmatian Coast tour, and we were heading along the winding coastal road. The rising sun was glistening on the water of Gruž (‘groosh’) harbour as we continued along the Croatian mainland and the peninsula of PeljeÅ¡ac, the second largest in Croatia. This beautiful unspoilt peninsula runs parallel to the Dalmatian coast, separating the island of KorÄula from the mainland. The main business in this area, our guide Tangra told us, is tourism, plus red wine, grape growing, mussels and oysters, pointing out the oyster farm in the bay with hundreds of containers bobbing on the ink-blue water. The dry stone walling we passed is the landmark of agricultural land, built with carefully selected interlocking stones, some 150, 200 and even 400 years old. Our journey took us through bright green vineyards and past twisted olive trees – the area also being a producer of good quality olive oil – and very pretty (and very toxic) oleander, a common sight around these parts.
City walls at Ston
On our way to KorÄula we called in at the historic town of Ston, whose landmark is the 5.5km long stone wall built in the 14th century. This wall, which is open to the public, is thought to be the longest defensive wall in Europe and second longest in the world after the Great Wall of China. If you have the energy, you can walk from Ston to its small sister town, Mali Ston (Small Ston) and enjoy breathtaking views of the charming towns and picturesque coastline. For us however, it was a just a short visit, with just enough time to wander around the smooth cobbled streets and grab a refreshing drink before continuing on to KorÄula.
Strolling around the small town of Ston
After a cooling 15-minute ferry ride across the turquoise Adriatic Sea, we arrive on the western side of the Old Town peninsula of KorÄula, founded at the beginning of the 13th century, and were met by our local guide, Lea. Dressed head to toe in white linen and with rich copper-coloured hair cut into a choppy bob, Lea was extremely tall – as are many people around this area, her pale face brightened by a flash of deep red lipstick. She told us how excited she was to be using her brand new parasol – apparently she’d been waiting for it for a long time! I could see how it would be such a welcome piece of apparatus if you were walking around in this heat each day.
Meeting our local guide
The town is surrounded by thick stone walls dating from the 14th century and towers that were built in medieval times to defend against enemies passing the island. 12 towers once stood on the island, today, just seven remain. Leading us up the stairway which took us through the entrance known as Sea Gate and one of the towers, called Kula Morska Vrata, Lea pointed out the view to the western part of KorÄula Town famous for its sunsets as the sun dips between the peninsula and the rest of the island. Entering the Old Town we walked along the narrow stone streets of the peninsula which gave us a welcome shelter from the heat of the day.
We imagined the famous sunset!
The Old Town of KorÄula itself has an interesting layout, almost like the bones of a fish. There’s a long main street running right through the centre of the town with smaller alleyways fanning out to either side. To the north west the streets are straight allowing the summer breeze known as the ‘maestral’ to come in from the sea, cooling the streets in the hot months. In winter comes the cold wind from the east, the ‘bura’, sometimes so strong that roads are closed as a precaution. On the south-eastern side of the peninsula the streets are more curved, reducing the effect of the bura blowing through. On the day of our visit, there was a pleasant light wind – maybe this was the maestral in action?
Exploring the alleyways of KorÄula Old Town
As we walked through the criss-crossed narrow alleyways Lea pointed out the bridges connecting buildings on the opposite sides of the street. These ‘bridge balconies’ joined the houses of close families for easy access, enabling them to cross over the balcony instead of going through the street.
‘Bridge balconies’ join some of the houses in KorÄula
Our tour continued past a giant 25-year-old rubber tree, the largest on the island, through winding streets with the mouth-watering smell of savoury food being carried along on the breeze. The smooth cobbled streets were quiet as Lea guided us along to the museum and on towards the 15th century St. Mark’s church right in the centre of the town.
Connections with Marco Polo
It was here that our tour came to an end. As we said goodbye to Lea, I continued the short stroll on to what is believed to be the house in which Marco Polo was born. The sweet smell of lavender from the pots which lined the wall hit me as I entered the stone doorway and climbed the narrow stairs of the tower or ‘loggia’, to be met by wonderful views over the town and out to sea. It has been argued by some that the explorer and writer was born in Venice and also Curzola off the coast of Dalmatia, but whether this lovely stone building in the centre of KorÄula was Polo’s birthplace or not, it was a lovely little place to call into.
Marco Polo’s house?Views from the tower
The peninsula is a really pleasant place to wander around: I passed little galleries and craft shops tucked into stone buildings, walked beneath washing hung out to dry across the ornate wrought iron balconies, and busy restaurants with brightly coloured umbrellas fluttering in the breeze. There were plenty of places to eat offering everything from sandwiches to pizza, pasta and seafood – it all smelled delicious! Continuing my explorations of the peninsula, I strolled through the backstreets which lead to the eastern side, lined with more inviting restaurants where people were enjoying a spot of lunch whilst taking in the fantastic views out across the sparkling sea. There was a lovely breeze, and the smell of seafood and wood burning stoves wafted along as I continued north, arriving at Zakerjan Tower (Kula Zakerjan), also called Berim Tower, then back along the main street running through the centre of the peninsula to the Land Gate or Revelin Tower (Veliki Revelin) at the south, built in the 14th century.
Zakerjan Tower (Kula Zakerjan) – also called Berim Tower – on the north side of KorÄula’s Old TownStrolling along the eastern side of the peninsula
The original wooden drawbridge which stood at the Land Gate was replaced in the 18th century by the sweeping cream stone steps which stand there today. As I made my way down the grand staircase I was met by the lively atmosphere of colourful market stalls selling stones, jewellery, t-shirts, hats and souvenirs and with people hunting for a bargain.
Land Gate or Revelin Tower (Veliki Revelin) at the south of the Old Town
Palm trees rustled in the breeze as I made my way around to our meeting point. It was time to say goodbye to the island of KorÄula after a wonderful few hours on this charming peninsula and a day of stunning scenery, beautiful Croatian sunshine and stories of Marco Polo.
Goodbye KorÄula!
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It was a warm early autumn morning, and I’d just jumped out of a taxi at one of the most famous landmarks in Paris, the Arc de Triomphe. There were people chatting, others posing for photos, cars, buses and scooters whizzing around like the horses on a merry-go-round and high above us, people walking around the top of the structure, which looked so much larger up close than it appeared in any of the photos in the brochures.
As I walked, the gentle sounds of the cream-coloured gravel crunching underfoot and birds singing above, the quiet hum of conversations and the bells of energetic cyclists ringing as they whizzed past all made for a very laid-back wonderful atmosphere.
Ahead of me was the large building of the Louvre Palace, home to one of the world’s largest museums and the modern glass pyramid which sits in the main courtyard. As I got closer I could see the long queue of people, all waiting to get in to the famous museum for a peek of one of art history’s most famous paintings, Leonardo’s Mona Lisa, perhaps or maybe the elegant sculpture of Venus de Milo?
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By this time it was extremely hot, with people sitting on the edges of the fountain dangling their feet into the water to cool down. I joined them for a few minutes and soaked up the atmosphere of my surroundings: the impressive glass pyramids, the decorated façades of the Louvre Palace; the cooling water pools and the visitors enjoying their day. It gave me a good opportunity to update my notebook, check my camera and consult my map. With my various bags, pockets and pieces of kit to delve into, the moment turned to slow motion as I saw my video camera taking a dive! “Nnnnnooooooo!!!†I yelled, as I lunged to grab it, but it was too late. There was a loud ‘PLOP!’ and there lay the camera, in 2 feet of water like a coin tossed into a fountain by visiting tourists. I reached into the cold water to retrieve the camera – knocking my map into the pond in the process – and left it to dry on the wall, in the hope, somehow, of bringing it back to life! After a few minutes, in the heat of this beautiful September day, the map was functional again, despite being a bit soggy. The video camera, on the other hand, was not.
Next on my list of ‘things to see’ was the Sacre Coeur Basilica – the Basilica of the Sacred Heart. Peeling my map apart, I set off through the passage leading out of the Louvre courtyard and along the Rue de Louvre, heading for the Montmartre area. 45 minutes later, after asking a couple of people in shops and bars for directions and after a lot of pointing and hand gestures, I reached the Sacre Coeur. The bright building stood out against the deep blue sky, much larger than I had expected. It had been quite a long walk – especially in the heat – and a lot of it had been up hill, but it was worth it for the wonderful view over the city. As I arrived at the steps I noticed the funicular which takes weary sightseers up the hill to the basilica itself.
The sun was beating down as I passed the crowds and there in front of me was Place du Tertre. The square, although small, was lined by restaurants on one side and was a maze of artists – an extremely busy place where painters sat at their easels, applying oil paint to their canvas while others were busily sketching as they glanced over their thick-rimmed spectacles every so often to see if their display has any interest. There were traditional paintings and some more modern or abstract; old artists with bushy white beards, some clad head to toe in denim; others wearing neckerchiefs and shoes with no socks – the atmosphere here was wonderful. One old artist stopped mixing the colours of his palette to stand up and show us his works. I noticed he had bright green paint dotted in his wiry white beard. “I have many more – this one is quite good†he told us, showing us another of his colourful works. Behind the artists, shaded restaurants were bustling like the rest of the area, packed with contented customers.
